Weeks 1–2 · Settling in
Sleep, house training and a crate that isn't a punishment.
The programs, in detail
Four programs of 6 to 12 weeks, all built on short daily sessions and weekly video feedback.
Program 01 · The first four months
Puppy foundations
The first months set up the next decade. We cover house training that works, a crate the puppy likes, normal-but-awful puppy biting, and a socialization plan built around what your puppy will actually meet in life. Vaccination timing questions go to your vet.
Weeks 3–4 · Biting and manners
Redirecting teeth and building an off switch.
Weeks 5–6 · Socialization
Careful, positive exposure to the world they'll live in.
Weeks 7–8 · First cues
Name, sit, come and settle — short sessions, high value.
Weeks 1–2 · Rewards and timing
Marker training and getting your hands to cooperate.
Weeks 3–4 · Loose leash
Indoors first, then the quietest street you can find.
Weeks 5–6 · Greetings
Four paws on the floor when people arrive.
Weeks 7–8 · Settling
A mat, a chew and a dog that can switch off.
Program 02 · Walks you enjoy
Everyday manners
Pulling, jumping and barking at the window are the three that make people miserable. Each has a straightforward reward-based solution and a lot of repetition. We build the mechanics — where the reward is delivered, when, and how quickly — because timing is what actually decides progress.
Program 03 · Coming back, every time
Recall
Recall is the one that keeps dogs alive, and the one most often broken by accident — calling a dog to end the fun, or repeating a cue the dog already ignores. We rebuild it from scratch on a long line, add distraction gradually, and set rules for what recall is never used for.
Weeks 1–3 · A fresh word
A new cue with no bad history, charged properly.
Weeks 4–6 · Distance
Long line work in the garden and quiet spaces.
Weeks 7–8 · Distractions
People, dogs and smells, added one at a time.
Weeks 9–10 · Real life
The park, with the line still on until it's genuinely reliable.
Weeks 1–3 · Management
Avoiding the triggers while training, so practice doesn't undo progress.
Weeks 4–6 · Distance
Finding the distance where your dog can still think.
Weeks 7–9 · Patterns
Predictable games that change the emotional response.
Weeks 10–12 · Closer
Reducing distance only as fast as the dog allows.
Program 04 · Lowering the volume
Fearful & over-excited dogs
Most barking and lunging is fear or frustration rather than aggression. We work on distance, predictable patterns and changing how your dog feels about the trigger. Important: if your dog has bitten, or you feel unsafe, coaching online isn't appropriate — you need an in-person qualified behavior consultant and a veterinary check, and we'll help you find both.
What's the one behavior you'd change?
Twenty minutes on your dog and a first five-minute exercise to try today. Free.